Tag: Bourbon
George T. Stagg Bourbon 2009 Edition
George T. Stagg Bourbon is one of those rare spirits that leaves you in a state of awe after you’ve tried it. This is due as much to the staggeringly high percentage (70.7%) as to the incredible quality of the whiskey itself. I still remember the first time I had the chance to try Stagg. It was the 2007 release, and I remember being immediately taken with its deft combination of finesse and power, like a velvet glove cast in iron. It rolled across your palate, teetering on the edge between delivering powerful waves of flavor and obliterating your taste buds completely. Absolutely spellbinding.
The Stagg bottling is part of Buffalo Trace’s annual Antique Collection that also features the Eagle Rare 17-Year, W.L. Weller Cask-Strength, Sazerac 18-Year Rye, and Thomas Handy Sazerac 6-Year Cask-Strength Rye. There’s good reason that these bottles are in high demand upon release, and very hard to find. Each offering in the Collection is a reliably excellent whiskey, and on most occasions outright brilliant. Of them all, the W.L. Weller remains my favorite, but it’s a tough call, as they’re all so good. But among them all, the Stagg really does stand out.
One element that I’ve always found interesting, is how Stagg’s percentage is always so high, 70.7% this year. In past years it has ranged from a low of 65.45% to a high of 72.4%. This is striking to me, considering that a cask-strength scotch typically weighs in somewhere between 55-60%. Why the difference?
When Scotch producers fill barrels with new-make spirit, they typically dilute it 63.5%. This has long been considered the optimal percentage at which to initiate a whisky’s aging process. Over the course of time then, the amount of alcohol in the whisky drops. If we assume that Buffalo Trace fills their casks with 63.5% whiskey too (I haven’t been able to find a source indicating the strength of the whisky when it is put in cask), then we’re witnessing the opposite phenomena here. The amount of alcohol in the whiskey is rising, not dropping. We see the same thing happening with the W.L. Weller and Thomas Handy bottlings as well.
The difference is the result of the different humidity levels in the environment that the whisk(e)y is aging in. The air in a warehouse full of casks in Scotland is more humid than the air in one of the buildings that Buffalo Trace is aging their whiskey in. The more humid the air is, the less water will evaporate from the whisky. Instead, alcohol evaporates from the whisky. Thus, while scotch ages, it loses more alcohol than it does water, in effect lowering the alcohol level of the whisky. In contrast, because the air is drier in a bourbon warehouse, more water evaporates from the whiskey than alcohol, and the exact opposite takes place – the alcohol percentage of the whiskey rises because more water is evaporating than alcohol.
So it basically comes down to humidity levels. More humidity – as in Scotland – results in dropping alcohol levels. Less humidity – as in a warehouse in Kentucky – results in rising alcohol levels. Now, there are sure to be exceptions to this. But from what I have seen thus far, this is a general pattern.
In the end, we have a bottle of George T. Stagg bourbon that weighs in at 70.7%. The first question is: is it drinkable at this percentage? In my experience it is only just drinkable at 70+%. Very, very small sips. But fortunately, it’s great whiskey, and takes well to a bit of water to mellow it out. So make sure you have your dribbler handy when you pour a glass of this elixir.
The whiskey pours the color of mahogany. The nose is very sweet, with rich, warm notes of caramel and vanilla, crushed almonds, and grade B maple syrup. The palate kicks off with caramel and brown sugar, slowly opening up to include walnuts, spicy resin and a shade of wood smoke. The texture is rich and luxurious, with a definite bite to it, even after adding water. The finish concludes with flavors of salted caramel and mesquite honey.
A very big whiskey, that brings loads of flavors to the table. I don’t think it’s overly dynamic, but it makes up for with the sheer power of the flavors that it conveys. You’ll likely need to ease your way through a glass of this, but it will be a very enjoyable journey.
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W.L. Weller 107 Antique 7 Year
In preparation for another tasting at Amherst Coffee, I’ve been doing a lot of research into American whiskies lately, most of it related to bourbon. It’s been remarkable to realize just how little I knew! Beyond the standard elements that make bourbon “bourbon” (i.e. the mashbill must contain at least 51% corn, and the whiskey must be aged in new oak barrels for two years), I really didn’t know much of anything.
In reality, there is a lot to learn about bourbons, and American whiskies in general. The problem is that if you have an occasional bourbon while mostly drinking scotch, you risk overlooking bourbon’s nuances. It’s just too easy to dismiss all bourbons as tasting the same when confronted with the wide array of flavors that different scotches display.
The reason is that most often the differences between one bourbon and the next are built on subtlety. Because the recipes for all bourbons are very similar, and the methods used to produce them (both distilling and aging) are also nearly the same, different expressions tend to draw on the same flavor profile. Common flavors repeatedly spring to mind, such as butterscotch, toffee, vanilla, honey, leather, and tobacco.
But when you can try a handful of bourbons next to one another, a whole new set of flavors emerges to accompany that core profile. With one expression there’s plums and red fruits; with the next hints of citrus and papaya; another has linseed oil, almonds, and melon; and the last presents spices, clover, and rich caramel. The entire spectrum of flavors that you are introduced to at a bourbon tasting can be spellbinding.
This began to make sense once I began to do some research. Bourbon is typically made using one of three recipe types. While laws stipulate that there must be a minimum of 51% corn, most producers are using about 75%. Corn provides for most of the sweetness and lush texture that bourbons have. After that, most recipes use about 12% barley. This lends some more body to the bourbon, while also adding enzymes to the mash that help to convert the sugars from the corn into alcohol. Lastly, the distiller can choose whether to use rye or wheat for the remaining 13%. The majority of distillers use rye, but a couple of bourbons on the market use wheat instead. Rye will add a lively spiciness to the bourbon. Wheat will smooth out and soften them, adding some depth in the process.
W.L. Weller, distilled in Frankfort, Kentucky by Buffalo Trace is one of only a few wheated bourbons on the market. The Weller is actually one of their two wheated bourbons, along with the Pappy Van Winkle collection. In fact, the Weller and Van Winkle bottlings are one of only three wheated bourbons I’ve uncovered thus far, the other being Maker’s Mark.
Ever since I first tasted the W.L. Weller 2007 Antique Bourbon I was entirely impressed. The bourbon was loaded with layers of flavor while being lusciously mellow and smooth. Since then I’ve been fortunate enough to try the Weller 10-Year Centennial bottling and the 2008 Antique bottling. Both were excellent, and amply displayed the difference between wheat versus rye when making bourbon.
This was the first time I’d had occasion to try the W.L. Weller 107 Antique 7 Year, one of the two young offerings from Weller, along with the Special Reserve 7 Year. The difference is the strength of the bottling, the Special Reserve coming in at 45%, and the 107 Antique at 53.5%. I was admittedly purchasing the bottle for purposes other than drinking straight-up, and so wanted to get something simple, but at the same time was interested in learning more about these very budget-friendly bourbons.
The result? This is a very tasty bourbon, and coincides well with my impression that bourbon has worlds more to offer than I’ve previously given it credit for. The appearance is amber gold. The nose has caramel, citrus, a bit of vanilla, a whiff of smoke, and a sweet astringency that I’ve found before in younger cognacs. The texture is soft and slightly viscous, with flavors of caramel, bittered orange peel, clove and cinnamon stick. The alcohol is hot and peppery, an indication of the whiskey’s age. The finish brings spices and a hint of caramel and simple syrup, with the alcohol leaving a slight burn. Both the palate and the finish had a slight astringency that drew attention away from the bourbon’s flavors.
In the end, this is not a bourbon that I would choose as a sipping whiskey, but for the price it would be a great one to have on hand. It would go great as a mixer in cocktails, or as a flavoring in creme brulee or whipped cream. In my case, I’m using it to soak oak cubes that I’ll later put into a maturing imperial stout. A simple way of emulating a bourbon barrel-aged beer for those of us who don’t brew 55 gallons at a time. After tasting this whiskey, I’m convinced that it’ll be the perfect bourbon to marry with a deep, dark stout.
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W.L. Weller Antique Collection 2007
About a year ago I was fortunate enough to be offered a tasting of a W.L. Weller cask-strength bourbon from Buffalo Trace’s Antique Collection. I’d had Weller before, but only in their no-age-statement basic bottling (notably a great bargain at $14) and had found it be pretty good for a low-end bourbon. And while I’ve been intrigued by bourbon for quite awhile now, I hadn’t yet been excited enough to pursue it with much emphasis.
So I wasn’t prepared for how incredible that tasting of the Weller cask-strength was going to be. So much flavor literally exploding in your mouth, the aroma just jumping out of the glass. Classic bourbon flavors of butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel, but amplified many times over.
Since then I’ve kept my eyes open for a bottle of Weller from the Antique Collection. The thing is, all of the bottlings in the Antique Collection are very rare and hard to find. So when I recently happened across one, I didn’t hesitate to take a chance on it. And now, having tasted it a couple of times since opening it, it’s clear that it was worth the wait.
This bottle is from the 2007 Antique Collection. It’s a 10-year old bourbon bottled at cask-strength (although I don’t believe it is a single-cask) at 58.95%, and is unfiltered. Weller is unusual from most bourbons in that it is what is referred to as a wheated bourbon. All bourbons must contain a minimum of 51% corn, but the remainder is often a blend of differing amounts of rye, barley, and wheat, and additional corn. In the case of the Weller, wheat makes up the largest component of that additional 49%. The result is a bourbon that lacks the spicy character that rye provides, but amply makes up for it by creating a voluptuous backdrop against which the bourbon’s flavors play out.
The Weller is the color of lustrous, deep gold. The nose speaks volumes: browned butter, caramel, vanilla, butterscotch, and a hint of raspberries. The palate is amazingly rich with layers of sweet vanillas and caramels, and a slight smokiness. The wheat character provides a great canvas for all of these flavors with a mouth-coating butteriness that is the foundation for the finish that just drags on and on. The layers of flavor give way to a distinct vanilla and smoke character on the finish that is really quite spellbinding. Interestingly, for a 58% bourbon, this needs no water at all. It is incredibly smooth.
The most amazing thing to me about this bourbon is that the three separate components, the nose, palate, and finish are all spellbinding in their own right. Each step is a great experience, making the Weller just a fabulous bourbon start to finish. You could even add the beautiful color of the bourbon to that matrix if you wanted to.
In sum, this is one helluva bourbon. The 2008 Antique Collection just came out, so it must be time to start keeping my eyes peeled once again.
A note about the Antique Collection: Each Fall Buffalo Trace Distillery releases the Antique Collection, their collection of special one-off bottlings of rare whiskies. Each year this includes the W.L. Weller Cask Strength, George T. Stagg (also cask strength, and often in the 17 year range), Eagle Rare (usually in the 18 year range), Sazerac Rye (usually in the 18 year range), and Sazerac Thomas Handy (a young, cask strength rye). The bottles are always quite limited, very hard to find, and very good. The Malt Advocate reviews of them rarely go much below an 88, and that is rare. Most usually get a score in the 90s.
I’ve tried the Stagg, which was a 17 year bourbon bottled at 72%. It was, needless to say, staggering in many respects. I enjoyed the Weller more on account of its greater smoothness and drinkability, but the Stagg was quite remarkable. I’ve also tried the Eagle Rare 18 year, which was quite good, but I was not overly impressed. Realistically though, this was in a tasting scenario that I don’t believe did the bourbon justice.
Oh, and they are all incredible values, usually priced by Buffalo Trace in the $60 range.
Basically, these are all reliably great whiskies, and well worth the trouble of making some effort to find.
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