Stumptown Coffee Roasters Kenya Gaturiri Reserve
Kenyan coffee represents a difficult and sad contradiction. The country is renowned for producing some of the finest coffees in the world. Roasters across the spectrum cite Kenyan coffee as embodying the perfect confluence of geography, varietals, and well-honed and effective processing methods. Yet the country’s auction system which can effectively pay top dollars to well-deserving, quality coffees is also renowned for the poor management and corruption that frequently result in the actual producers – the farmers themselves – receiving little of this money. As a result, while the country’s coffees can be excellent, the farmers struggle to make a living and maintain their communities.
So it is notable that this is Stumptown’s first ever East African Direct Trade coffee. Their website explains that “to be able to guarantee such a phenomenal price to the association members of Gaturiri…is the first step towards transparent coffee business in Kenya.” This direct relationship is the result of the opening of what is called the “Second Window”. In November of 2006 the Kenyan government authorized legislation which allowed farmers to pursue relationships with agents outside of the auction system. While this “Second Window” legislation has raised many questions about its efficacy in improving farmers’ options for selling their coffee, roasters such as Stumptown and Intelligentsia have begun introducing new Kenyan coffees that are indeed the result of more direct relationships with farmers than they had been able to before. As part of these relationships the roasters are guaranteeing premium prices to the cooperatives and farmers they are working with, striving to achieve optimal financial transparency and to ensure that the farmers receive their due share of the prices paid, and working closely with both farmers and cooperatives to promote and enable ideal and sustainable agriculture and processing methods. Two years after the passing of the new legislation, these relationships forged by prominent roasters may be the first steps in improving both the quality of Kenyan coffee (which was already very good) and the economic life of the farmers who produce it.
Check out this article for more information on the “Second Window” legislation.
This Gaturiri Reserve was produced in East Africa by the members of the Gaturiri washing station that is part of the Barichu Cooperative in the Central Kenyan Highlands. The coffee was raised at an altitude of 1700-1800 meters, and features the two common Kenyan varietals SL28 and SL34. The “SL” stands for Scot Laboratories where the varietals were first developed. In the 1930′s this lab conducted cross-breeding of a number of different varieties in search of high-quality, high-yield, and disease resistant strains. SL28 and SL34 were both results of this work. SL28 is known for high-quality but fairly small yields, and producing an intensely citric, sweet, and balanced cup. SL34 is best known for producing high-quality coffee at medium-to-high altitudes, complex citric acidity, heavy mouthfeel and clean, sweet finish. The coffee is wet-processed, and after being washed the beans are transferred to drying tables.
The roast is fairly light, yet again disproving the persistent myth that all West coast coffees are darkly roasted. The nose gives off scents of milk chocolate, hazelnuts, and salted caramel. The palate has pine nuts, malted milk balls, ancho peppers, caramel, cedar, and blackberries. The texture is plush and rich with an easy-drinking soft acidity. The finish is dry, minty and nutty and medium-length.
A very nice coffee from Stumptown. Not as compelling as the Ethiopian coffee that I had from them recently, or some of the other Kenyan coffees, but very enjoyable and easy to drink. The lush texture and low acidity make this a good cup of coffee for anytime of day, and I suspect that it’d be appealing to a broad range of palates.
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