W.L. Weller 107 Antique 7 Year
In preparation for another tasting at Amherst Coffee, I’ve been doing a lot of research into American whiskies lately, most of it related to bourbon. It’s been remarkable to realize just how little I knew! Beyond the standard elements that make bourbon “bourbon” (i.e. the mashbill must contain at least 51% corn, and the whiskey must be aged in new oak barrels for two years), I really didn’t know much of anything.
In reality, there is a lot to learn about bourbons, and American whiskies in general. The problem is that if you have an occasional bourbon while mostly drinking scotch, you risk overlooking bourbon’s nuances. It’s just too easy to dismiss all bourbons as tasting the same when confronted with the wide array of flavors that different scotches display.
The reason is that most often the differences between one bourbon and the next are built on subtlety. Because the recipes for all bourbons are very similar, and the methods used to produce them (both distilling and aging) are also nearly the same, different expressions tend to draw on the same flavor profile. Common flavors repeatedly spring to mind, such as butterscotch, toffee, vanilla, honey, leather, and tobacco.
But when you can try a handful of bourbons next to one another, a whole new set of flavors emerges to accompany that core profile. With one expression there’s plums and red fruits; with the next hints of citrus and papaya; another has linseed oil, almonds, and melon; and the last presents spices, clover, and rich caramel. The entire spectrum of flavors that you are introduced to at a bourbon tasting can be spellbinding.
This began to make sense once I began to do some research. Bourbon is typically made using one of three recipe types. While laws stipulate that there must be a minimum of 51% corn, most producers are using about 75%. Corn provides for most of the sweetness and lush texture that bourbons have. After that, most recipes use about 12% barley. This lends some more body to the bourbon, while also adding enzymes to the mash that help to convert the sugars from the corn into alcohol. Lastly, the distiller can choose whether to use rye or wheat for the remaining 13%. The majority of distillers use rye, but a couple of bourbons on the market use wheat instead. Rye will add a lively spiciness to the bourbon. Wheat will smooth out and soften them, adding some depth in the process.
W.L. Weller, distilled in Frankfort, Kentucky by Buffalo Trace is one of only a few wheated bourbons on the market. The Weller is actually one of their two wheated bourbons, along with the Pappy Van Winkle collection. In fact, the Weller and Van Winkle bottlings are one of only three wheated bourbons I’ve uncovered thus far, the other being Maker’s Mark.
Ever since I first tasted the W.L. Weller 2007 Antique Bourbon I was entirely impressed. The bourbon was loaded with layers of flavor while being lusciously mellow and smooth. Since then I’ve been fortunate enough to try the Weller 10-Year Centennial bottling and the 2008 Antique bottling. Both were excellent, and amply displayed the difference between wheat versus rye when making bourbon.
This was the first time I’d had occasion to try the W.L. Weller 107 Antique 7 Year, one of the two young offerings from Weller, along with the Special Reserve 7 Year. The difference is the strength of the bottling, the Special Reserve coming in at 45%, and the 107 Antique at 53.5%. I was admittedly purchasing the bottle for purposes other than drinking straight-up, and so wanted to get something simple, but at the same time was interested in learning more about these very budget-friendly bourbons.
The result? This is a very tasty bourbon, and coincides well with my impression that bourbon has worlds more to offer than I’ve previously given it credit for. The appearance is amber gold. The nose has caramel, citrus, a bit of vanilla, a whiff of smoke, and a sweet astringency that I’ve found before in younger cognacs. The texture is soft and slightly viscous, with flavors of caramel, bittered orange peel, clove and cinnamon stick. The alcohol is hot and peppery, an indication of the whiskey’s age. The finish brings spices and a hint of caramel and simple syrup, with the alcohol leaving a slight burn. Both the palate and the finish had a slight astringency that drew attention away from the bourbon’s flavors.
In the end, this is not a bourbon that I would choose as a sipping whiskey, but for the price it would be a great one to have on hand. It would go great as a mixer in cocktails, or as a flavoring in creme brulee or whipped cream. In my case, I’m using it to soak oak cubes that I’ll later put into a maturing imperial stout. A simple way of emulating a bourbon barrel-aged beer for those of us who don’t brew 55 gallons at a time. After tasting this whiskey, I’m convinced that it’ll be the perfect bourbon to marry with a deep, dark stout.
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