Fattoria di Felsina Chianti Classico 2006
Over the past year or so I’ve been slowly reading my way through Vino Italiano: The Regional Wines Of Italy, going chapter by chapter and often trying to sample a few of the wines that are mentioned in each chapter. The book is well-written and does a good job of articulating what is especially good or unique about each of Italy’s many wine regions. And so it is normal for me to get fairly excited about the wines of region X when I read the given chapter.
Before reading the chapter on Tuscany I knew next-to-nothing about this region, little more than the notion of what a Super Tuscan was (and even that was hazy and ill-informed). As a result this turned into a chapter that I enjoyed a great deal. I learned the very basic fact that both Chianti (Classico) and Brunello di Montalcino are from Tuscany, two DOCGs that I was happy to have more than hearsay to put to the names. The chapter did a great job of laying out info about nearly all of Tuscany’s 40 DOC zones, including some solid info about Vin Santo.
Initially it was Vin Santo that really captured my attention most regarding the wines of Tuscany. But it was the information about Chianti that I found to be particularly intriguing. This was largely due in part to my experience in often enjoying Chiantis as solid go-to wines in unknown restaurants, and the distinct impression lent by the book that a number of seriously good Chianti producers had come on the scene in the last decade or two. Brunello di Montalcino didn’t appeal to me initially on account of it coming across as an overly hyped wine scene (in much the same way that I find little of intellectual interest in Bordeaux – great wines I’m sure, but I don’t seem to get very interested in learning more about them), but Chianti somehow nestled its way into my imagination.
But until last night I hadn’t gotten around to trying any Chianti Classicos. Fortunately, the first bottle we opened was from the Fattoria de Felsina. Both Vino Italianio and Italian Wines 2008 (Gambero Rosso) have very positive things to say about this winery. They are regular winners of the three glass award from Gambero Rosso, and are praised in both books for the refinement, balance, and elegance of their wines along with the high quality throughout their entire range. Felsina produces a small range of wines that most notably includes 3 Chianto Classicos (Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Riserva, and Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva) along with a super Tuscan named Fontalloro, and a Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. It is the Chianti Classico Rancia Riserva and Fontalloro that have earned Felsina the most honors, yet the authors of Vino Italiano write that “elegant and aromatic Chianti Classico is the specialty of this famed estate.”
The estate owns 62 hectares of vines in the Chianti Classico zone and produces about 400,000 bottles of wine each year. Their Chiantis and the Fontalloro are all made up of 100% Sangiovese. The grapes for this Chianti Classico were grown at an altitude of 350m to 420m and harvested during the first three weeks of October 2005. After fermentation the wine was transferred to small and medium sized oak casks for 12 months of aging, followed by 3 months of bottle aging before release.
The wine pours a velvety cherry red-black color. The nose has smoke, deep notes of black cherries, and an intriguing trace of honey. The palate tastes of plums, black cherries, and a hint of earthiness, along with some spiciness and menthol. The tannins are noticeable, but are sweet and not overpowering. The somewhat short finish has a core of freshly acidic red fruit.
On the whole I thought this was great, easy-drinking red wine, one that while not being overly complex or challenging, nonetheless brought a great mix of flavors to the glass. Based on this wine, I would love to try either the Riserva or the Rancia Riserva, both of which are a step above the straight Chianti Classico in terms of both the selected grapes and the aging the wine gets before release. And it goes nearly without saying that the Vin Santo is on my list of wines to one day have a chance to try.
This was a great wine to use as a stepping stone in getting to know the wines of Chianti Classico. Felsina is clearly a well-reputed producer, and their Chianti Classico turned out to be a good introduction to both Chianti Classico, Tuscany, and the Sangiovese grape.
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