Maui Coffee Company 100% Kona

I don’t think very often about Hawaiian coffee. I think this is largely due to it not being offered by any of the roasters that I’ve been buying from recently (Intelligentsia, Gimme!, Terroir, and Stumptown). I know that Barrington carries it, but I’ve only had it on drip in their cafes, and so cannot remember drinking it at all. So it is one of those coffees that I may read about at some point, but have not actually tried.

I find myself wondering why it is that Hawaiian coffee is not offered by the above-mentioned roasters. At this point, I don’t know enough about the “world” of coffee to know if Hawaiian coffees are simply not as highly rated as those from Central/South America and Africa. Or if they lack the romance that coffees from these regions offer. My suspicion is that it is a combination of the terroir of Hawaiian coffees not producing as dynamic a product, alongside the sense that in these other regions there are a greater number of small farms and cooperatives producing a very unique product. If I understand correctly, Hawaiian coffee is not produced by small farmers to the extent that Central/South American and African coffees are.

So I was fortunate to receive this pound of coffee as a gift. It is a 100% Kona coffee, indicating that all of the beans are cultivated on the slopes of Mount Hualalai and Mauna Loa on the island of Hawaii. Kona beans are somewhat rare and apparently highly sought after, and so a 100% Kona coffee is a nice treat.

The coffee’s aroma is very subtle, with notes of milk chocolate, mint, and smoke. The palate is very soft, with just a lining of acidity that serves mostly to brighten the other flavors. The milk chocolate carries through to the palate, alongsidesome cinnamon and a hint of ancho peppers. The finish feels fat and thick but leaves the palate fresh.

This is a nice coffee, especially for breakfast. Lots of good flavors that play nicely together and are balanced by enough acidity to make things interesting. I’m not sure I’d go out of my way to buy it again, but I’d definitely try some of Barrington’s Kona coffee next time I see it.


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Thursday, November 6th, 2008 Coffee

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